the Highlands
The Highlands is situated high on the slopes of Olmoti Volcano, and at 2,700m (8,850ft) is the highest camp in the Ngorongoro Highlands area. The extinct Olmoti rests between The Highlands and the massive caldera of Ngorongoro Crater. This is a remote area, far from any other lodges and camps,...
Mystery stripes
Ruyard Kipling wrote a wonderful book - Just So Stories explaining various mysteries including how the leopard got his spots, and how the rhino got his skin. However he never dared explain why zebras have stripes. Almost wherever you go on an African safari you will see zebras. They are...
To the top of Africa
We reached a ledge where we could rest and have a picnic ¾s of the way up the formidable 3,000 ft high (over 1,000m) Western Breach. The Breach is the steepest and hardest non-technical route up Mount Kilimanjaro. Even though it is hard to breathe (there is nearly half the...
Giraffe – one species or more?
An essential requirement for a species is that they can reproduce and have fertile offspring. Clearly if they cannot do so, they become extinct. Most hybrids such as a liger, which results when a lion and a tiger mate, are infertile. The same occurs when a horse is cross-bred with...
A day and a night at Ngorongoro Crater
Ngorongoro Crater is a marvel of geology. It is a fully intact 280km2 unbroken caldera situated in the heart of the Great Rift Valley. The rim of the caldera is around 1,800m (6,000 ft) above sea level. Standing on the forested and misty slopes of the eastern rim offers astounding...
Africa’s most iconic mammal
Mention Africa and lions, cheetahs, gazelles, elephants, rhinoceroses and leopards come to mind, but none of these animals are uniquely African, as they are also indigenous in Asia. For instance one of the three surviving species of elephant in the world, the Indian elephant, is Asian. So which mammal is...
The struggle for wildlife in Mana Pools
One of my favourite national parks, Mana Pools in Zimbabwe, is very seasonal. It is an outstanding place to experience wildlife in the dry season, when wildlife congregates near the Zambezi River. That is when visitors are drawn to this phenomenal place and the chance of poaching being unnoticed is...
The future of elephants is in our hands
Today is World Wildlife Day. Each year the United Nations chooses a different theme to highlight the threat to wildlife on our planet and raise awareness. This year the theme is "The future of elephants is in our hands". Sadly, this statement has never been more true. I was born and...
Tribute to Big Bird
If you have ever been to Greystoke Camp, hidden in the rainforest and nestled on the shores of giant Lake Tanganyika, your stay there will no doubt have been burned in your memory. Aside from its idyllic setting, and the "Robinson Crusoe" character of this remote camp, it is also...
Uganda – on safari in December
The Engs family from California asked us where we recommend for their fourth safari with us, this time over Christmas. They loved their safari in Zimbabwe, but Christmas is not the best time to visit the Miombo/Mopane belt (northern South Africa, southern Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe). It is however, an...
Entamanu Camp at Ngorongoro Crater
Entamanu Camp is tucked in a surreal and magical acacia forest at 2,200m (7,200ft) on the western edge of Ngorongoro Crater rim, offering views eastwards into the Crater below. On clear days it is also possible to see the vast Serengeti Plains to the west of camp. Chilly from June...
The Monastery
The views change dramatically as we drive through the pass. We left the small hotel in Alquézar after breakfast, where buildings of brick and reddish sandstone are plastered with an earthy clay and have red tiled roofs, nestled in a land of grey and red limestones, which has been aged...
